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Casement windows are a form of windows that open similarly to doors with either the left side or right side of the window pivoted. The non-hinged/pivoted side of the window is fastened shut with latches. Most casement windows are opened by turning a crank or rotor of some sort, rather than with a knob or lever, though this is not universally true. Because of the operation of casement windows, adequate weatherproofing is a special consideration.

First, because casement windows open outwards (rather than upwards, side-to-side, or inwards like some other window types), 3 of their edges are regularly exposed to the elements. The top edge is particularly vulnerable and can be the source of weatherproofing problems down the road if not properly proofed at the outset and maintained. Second, the crank unit of a casement window is also potentially vulnerable to the elements, and not only the sash. Certainly a jammed casement window is the last thing you want, especially if it jams in the open position during a rainstorm or, worse, a snowstorm!

On the other hand, one advantage of casement windows is that by their design they tend to be somewhat more energy efficient, because wind blowing along their surface tends to seal them more tightly. In addition to preserving the life of your windows and preventing water leaks, weatherproofing your casement windows also can lead to significant utility savings. In winter months, it has been estimated that proper weather sealing can lead to up to a 30% reduction in heating costs.

Given this information, how does one properly weatherproof casement windows? First, some sort of sealant is needed around all four sides of the sash. A common solution is to apply self-adhering foam compression strips on the window stops. A caveat to this solution is that self-adhering pads do not stick well in cold weather, both in application and in maintenance. Certain plastics are alternatives to foam pads, albeit more expensive, such as premium neoprene window stop strips or nylon weather stripping.

Another consideration is the composition of the frame of your casement window. Many people don’t realize that the frame, rather than the glass, is the biggest culprit in terms of lost hot air. So for cold environments, one should opt for fiberglass, wood, and vinyl. Aluminum, while cheap, should be avoided in your casement windows because it will lead to higher heating costs.

A further consideration is the coating and filler in your actual glass pane. Glass coatings admit or repel heat according to your climate. High solar gain low E is best suited for cold climates. In contrast, low solar gain low E is best suited for warm places. An intermediate moderate solar gain, low E coating is best for intermediate climates. Windows with non-toxic gas fillers create an additional insulation layer to maintain internal temperature.

Another step you can take is to seal cracks around the sill and frame with caulk. Caulk is best applied on warmer, dry days, because moisture prevents its proper function. Gaps larger than fissures or cracks should be closed off with wood filler, followed by priming and a weatherproof exterior paint. If you follow these steps, your casement windows should last longer and your utility bills will be a little less painful each month. Crank away!

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